Installation Ceramic
How to Lay Ceramic Tile Flooring
Prepare the Substrate
Ceramic tile is fragile on its own but gains strength when laid on top of a firm, inflexible surface free of gaps and ridges. You can generally lay ceramic tile directly on a concrete slab subfloor as long as the concrete is in good condition and free of moisture. To lay ceramic tile on plywood subfloors, the recommended substrate is a layer of cement board.
Dry-Fit the Tiles
When laying ceramic tile, it's typically best to start in the middle by measuring all walls to determine the center point for each wall. Snap a chalk line between each of the two opposing walls to create a cross pattern. Without mortar or grout, lay out tiles and tile spacers in a line on each arm of the cross.
If you're dry-fitting the design to lay ceramic tiles in a bathroom, it's generally recommended to start at the center of the room. In smaller rooms, this ensures even cuts on both edges.
Lay the Tile
Gently press the tile into the wet thinset, twisting the tile back and forth to press it deeper into the thinset. Your aim is to collapse any ridges in the mortar and fill in gaps. Occasionally lift a tile and check the back to ensure full coverage. If your tiles aren't covered fully, you can back butter the tiles by adding mortar to the tile itself before placing it. As you progress from one tile to the next, place tile spacers at the corners to maintain consistent spacing.
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap along walls, cabinets, and other large room elements. Do not add mortar to these gaps.
Lay the bubble level across multiple tiles to check for both level and to eliminate lippage from one tile to the next. Lightly tap the tiles with the rubber mallet to level them.
Cut the Edge Tiles
For cutting only a few tiles, a rail tile cutter can inexpensively and effectively snap apart tiles. Place the uneven, snapped sides against the wall, where baseboards will cover them. Buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfectly straight cuts. Use the tile nipper only for cutting around pipes, toilet bases, and for other non-linear cuts. Always wear safety glasses with any mode of tile cutting to protect your eyes against flying shards. Allow the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours before applying grout.
Grout the Tile
After removing the tile spacers, use the rubber float to press the grout into the tile seams. Work in small sections. Then, holding the float at a 45-degree angle, firmly draw the long edge of the float across the tile seam. Move diagonally to avoid pulling grout out of the seam. Deposit excess grout back in the grout bucket.
After a section has cured for about an hour, follow up by soaking a sponge in clean water in a bucket and lightly wiping the grout lines in a circular motion to remove excess grout.
Remove the Grout Haze
A milky-white grout haze will remain on the tile surface. Remove the grout haze after the tile has fully cured by first wiping it down with a sponge and clean water. Next, add 3 ounces of haze cleaner per gallon of water, or as directed by the product instructions, and soak the sponge in this solution. Wipe down the tile surface with this solution until the haze has disappeared.
